Question Exploring Belgrade in Fall 2009 - Tips and Must-Sees?

Hi, I'm in the planning stages of a trip for fall 2009, mainly focusing on Eastern Europe, and I'm considering Belgrade as one of my stops. I've heard it's a city with a lot of history and vibrant nightlife, but I'm looking for more specific tips and must-see places. What are the best areas to stay in for a mix of culture and convenience? Also, any recommendations for experiencing the local food scene or hidden gems that aren't in the typical tourist guides? Would love to hear from anyone who's been there or knows the city well!